After a series of shows in Northern Italy, Rick Owens returned to France to present his spring/summer 2022 womenswear collection.
In the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ wife and business partner Michele Lamy led the procession wearing thigh-high platformed sandal shoes, a transparent skirt, and a leather skirt made of structural leather. As a tribute to the covid shows of the past, the models that followed walked through a multitude of jasmine leaves brought from the designer’s Venetian home.
Many of the pieces are built around exaggerated structural elements, such as sharp tailoring, sharp shoulders, and lacquered stretch jeans that form abstract skirts. The contrast is stark between the geometric, flesh-exposing cutouts and flowing robes made from feather-encrusted tulle. Hard shoulders bubble jackets and ruched bodies in chiffon accentuate the architectural details Owens is interested in, while cloaks made from “feather encrusted tulle” accentuate his signature style.
Owens noted in his notes that Owens said that there is a brisk logic to beauty pursuits. He also liked the endless refining of creative signatures of those that he admired. It seemed the right thing to do.
The Drkshdw capsule that the designer uses to create elements of his collection was developed in Kurashiki, Japan. Yamaashi Orimono created a custom-woven orange selvedge jeans using vintage Sakamoto shuttle machines. It joins the avantgarde capsule that is well-known for its frequently released sneaker designs.
The Global Organic Textile Standard certified denim that were not included in this Japan capsule. It used organic cotton grown in an Italian mill.
Multicoloured mohair spiderweb knittings in multicoloured shades of colour provide dynamic layers. They are constructed in a way that appears to drip from the body, with occasional pops of colour. The knits are deconstructed, and can be removed or modified as desired by the wearer.
Accessories played an important role in the line. Choker necklaces and other pieces were sourced from Owens’ ongoing jewellery collection, which was created in collaboration with Maison, Goossens. Bags were also made using Pirarucu Dragon Scale Leather, an agricultural byproduct.
Watch the full PFW SS22 Rick Owens’ show below.