Twin Peaks actor Kyle MacLachlan opened Prada’s menswear show. This saw a number of talented actors, including Jeff Goldblum, and Sex Education newcomer Asa Butterfield, take to the catwalk.
Prada would sum up three items next season: the trench, blazer, and a square-toed shoes. These are all architectural pillars of any working man’s wardrobe. The trench is a broad-shouldered, double-breasted style that accents the waist and chest. It is also military in length and below the calf. You can also choose from a double-breasted wool, cashmere or cashmere with arm trims and a sheepskin edge.
Blazers featured the same exaggerated shoulder cut, which emphasised power and strength. They also had hidden buttons and a minimalist closure. The sleeves were long and only three-quarters of an inch of the hand was visible. They were also paired with bright red or yellow gloves.
The end of the cropped trousers was signaled by long, loose trousers that were worn over shoes. What does a longer trouser indicate for the working man? Perhaps persistence and reliability. They were sturdy and black, with a square toe that reflected the show’s theme of “a parody on man power”.
The notes accompanying the collection provided insight into Miuccia Prada’s and Raf Simons’ mindsets: “We were thinking about meaningful fashion, pieces which make sense. Clothes that make people feel valued.”
“The collection celebrates working in all its spheres. It’s a common, practical thing. You are formal important here. You are not casual.”
Body of work
Prada stated that the collection is a uniform of real life, rematerialized with leather and silk tech to show respect and value. These are placed alongside the language and sartorial tailoring which confers importance.
Prada stated that the garments were a “constructed modernism” with emphasis on the body, shoulders and waist, as well as traditional tailoring which creates a silhouette that can be transmuted into everyday clothing. Every type of clothing is given equal importance through fabrication and method. Each aspect of reality is given significance, sophistication, and esteem.”