MFW SS22: Marni unveils genderfluid ready-to-wear collection on Milan runway

group of women wearing dresses in a fashion show

Marni, a luxury fashion house, presented its ready to wear collection. It made many references to the nearly two-year-old pandemic through a presentation that combined the performers and the audience in a grand spectacle.

The clothing was designed to bring people together through genderless styles and consistent techniques. This was evident in the large range of oversized blazers and huge cardigans, as well as tank tops, wrap skirts, tank tops and tank tops. The collection’s defining elements were vertical and horizontal stripes and floral patterns. They could be combined or dynamically printed with bold pieces.

group of women wearing dresses in a fashion show

Some looks featured cut-out flower shapes, which were then layered over each other in contrasting colours. This technique was used to create matching co-ords, skirts, and dresses. Other pieces opted for a minimalistic daisy print.

The latest collection was also worn by performers who took to the stage to recite poems and sing songs. The daisy print was worn by one poet on pants that were paired with a more subtle grey and black blazer. The closing ceremony saw a singer join the models in their style. She wore a beaded harness top with floral shapes covering her chest, and a cut-out flower skirt. This was in keeping with the theme of the line’s quirky, graphic motifs.

The runway cast was equally diverse in terms of body type, ethnicity, and gender fluidity. This contrasted with other designers who presented at the Milan event.

man holding smartphone

Marni’s presentation was as much about the guests as the models on the runway. The show’s guests were dressed in tailored upcycled cotton pieces with hand-painted stripes and sat in a spiral arrangement. The show’s fundamental idea of clothing being made for people was reflected in the audience participation.

Francesco Risso, creative director, stated repeatedly throughout the pandemic how the fashion industry had to adapt to significant lifestyle changes. This new presentation breaks down the barriers between performer and observer, highlighting Risso’s idea to create a collection “about getting dressed to be together”, which is a reference to the reestablishment in-person meetings.

Watch full Marni SS22 show below.

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